i remember most from berlin the summer twilight, which as if in a dream state would last almost until midnight, the light unreally soft. the green of city's many large parks too seemed unreal, such profuse growth in advance of being frozen over. berlin has so much space, endless and flat, the streets strangely empty as footsteps and voices echo against the apartments. at the time the space and sadness of listening to grouper for the first time seemed the perfect soundtrack. against its enormous history berlin feels markedly tranquil, a quality that sits alongside the ways it is vibrant and exciting. i thought of it as a place where some of the darkest lessons of the 20th century have been so internalised as to exist deeply within the fabric of the city itself, its experiences of peace, openness, and diversity actively defined in relation to the weight of that history.